Maiko Girl, by Kuroda Seiki, Maiji Period, 1893, courtesy of the Tokyo National Museum

North American travelers started cutting back on travel to Japan more than a decade ago when the yen seemed expensive against the dollar, measured by travelers using what I call the Coca-Cola index (as in, “A Coke costs $10 at the Narita Airport!” ‒ that spoken by a fellow traveler in 1995 at the yen’s peak).

Since then, many world currencies have gained against the dollar, while the dollar has recently done well against the yen. Foreign currency exchange is an odd soup and doesn’t hold still, of course; yet its weird math puts Japan back on the travel list again. My seat companion of 15 years ago would say, “Coca-Cola is expensive here, but it’s not as bad as in (fill in the blank) …”

So, Japan is back on the traveler’s agenda. As it should be. For many westerners, a visit to Japan means the unraveling of cultural mystery, and of such things great trips are made. Lest you fear Japan’s past might not capture your interest, remember James Clavell’s novel Shogun, which stayed on the best-seller list almost infinitely and became the second-highest-watched television epic of all time. In fact, a re-read of Shogun is an enormously satisfying preview to any first trip to Japan.

Another lens through which to view Japan’s history and culture is its numerous museums and non-commercial galleries, of which there are well over 100 in Tokyo alone. There is so much to view that exhibits change frequently, so don’t worry if you visited a few years ago ‒ what’s on display now will likely be a fresh grouping.

It has been awhile since we published our secret list of favorite Tokyo museums in Passport Newsletter. Here is another look in a somewhat shorter and abridged form:

Tokyo National Museum, Japan’s largest and most comprehensive repository of antiquities and traditional art. The huge collection of about 90,000 items is spread over several buildings, and it takes days to see everything. 13-9 Ueno Koen, Taito-ku. Tel: 81-3-3822-1111.

National Museum of Western Art. In a building designed by Le Corbusier, the museum has significant holdings of 19th-century French paintings as well as Matisse, Picasso, Pollack, Ernst, Miro, and Dubuffet; old masters including Tintoretto, El Greco, Rubens. 7-7 Ueno Koen, Taito-ku. Tel. 81-3-3828-5131.

Japan Folk Crafts Museum. Contains the most important collection of early Japanese paintings, porcelain, textiles, pottery, lacquerware, furniture, toys, metalwork, costumes, and masks. 4-3-33 Komaba, Meguro-ku. Tel: 81-3-3467-4527.

Ota Memorial Ukiyoe Museum. Rare masterpieces of Japan’s major ukiyoe woodblock artists. 1-10-10 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 81-3-3822-1111.

Tokyo National Museum of Modern Art. Every important Japanese artist from Meiji to contemporary times is included in this collection of paintings, prints, calligraphy, sculpture, and handicrafts. 3 Kitanomaru Koen, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 81-3-5777-8600.

Japanese Sword Museum. A permanent display of swords and fittings by famous Japanese sword makers, ancient and modern. 4-25-10 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 81-3-3379-1386.

Nezu Art Museum. An outstanding display of Japanese paintings, calligraphy, sculpture, china, lacquerware, metalwork. Japanese garden with teahouses. Reopened three weeks ago after having been closed for two years for renovations. 6-5-1 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku. Tel: 81-3-3400-2536.

Kite Museum. Kites of all kinds and shapes from Japan and other nations. Fifth floor, Taimeiken Building, 1-12-10 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku. Tel: 81-3-3271-2465.

Sumo Museum. Items concerned with the history of Japanese wrestling, starting from the 18th century. 1-3-28 Yoko-ami, Sumida-ku. Tel: 81-3-3622-0366.

Mori Art Museum. One of the city’s most exciting showcases for contemporary art as well as offering superbly presented exhibitions on design, media art, fashion and architecture. Museum admission includes entry to Tokyo City View, a 52nd-floor observatory. Mori Tower, Roppongi 6-chome, Minato-ku. Tel: 81-3-5777-8600.

National Art Center, Tokyo. Housed in a spectacular building that itself almost qualifies as a work of art, the National Art Center, Tokyo, opened in 2007, is the country’s largest exhibition space. It lacks a permanent collection, but presents exhibitions that cover both classical and contemporary art. 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 81-3-6812-9900.

– Peg Prideaux, CTC
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Grapes line the Yarra Valley outside of Melbourne, Australia

Australia may be climbing out from under the Global Economic Crisis rock sooner than its English-speaking cousins. The Aussie dollar is now worth about 90 US cents, up considerably from just a few years ago.

Still, that’s an excellent value for American travelers compared, for example, to the euro or the pound.

If you’re headed to Australia to enjoy the remaining extra stretch your US or Canadian dollar may still hold, you’ll want to ensure Melbourne is on your sightseeing agenda. For the past two years the city has outpaced Sydney in tourism ‒ or so says the Victoria state tourism board.

Something about Melbourne makes one want to set down roots. To get that “planted here for awhile” sensation while visiting, the Lyall Hotel in South Yarra is definitely worth consideration. Small, high-end, and well-run, it’s a masterful blend of hotel and home, right down to the full kitchen and washer/dryer in most suites. Our review from last year still stands. Read it now.

While there is much to do in Melbourne ‒ more than can be spelled out here ‒ our correspondent frequently recommends getting outside of the city for Epicurean Tours’ Yarra Valley wine country program. The upscale day-tour includes two vineyard wine tastings and time at a local cheese farm, plus lunch at a third winery followed by a visit to the contemporary art collection at the TarraWarra Museum. It’s a full day, well spent.

– Peg Prideaux, CTC
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