Maiko Girl, by Kuroda Seiki, Maiji Period, 1893, courtesy of the Tokyo National Museum
North American travelers started cutting back on travel to Japan more than a decade ago when the yen seemed expensive against the dollar, measured by travelers using what I call the Coca-Cola index (as in, “A Coke costs $10 at the Narita Airport!” ‒ that spoken by a fellow traveler in 1995 at the yen’s peak).
Since then, many world currencies have gained against the dollar, while the dollar has recently done well against the yen. Foreign currency exchange is an odd soup and doesn’t hold still, of course; yet its weird math puts Japan back on the travel list again. My seat companion of 15 years ago would say, “Coca-Cola is expensive here, but it’s not as bad as in (fill in the blank) …”
So, Japan is back on the traveler’s agenda. As it should be. For many westerners, a visit to Japan means the unraveling of cultural mystery, and of such things great trips are made. Lest you fear Japan’s past might not capture your interest, remember James Clavell’s novel Shogun, which stayed on the best-seller list almost infinitely and became the second-highest-watched television epic of all time. In fact, a re-read of Shogun is an enormously satisfying preview to any first trip to Japan.
